Everest by climbers.eu

Updated: June 10, 2008 

K2 (8611)

Italian K2 Expedition 2008
Marco Confortola (L), Angelo Giovanetti, Manni Roberto, Gian Mario Merelli
Arrival: 22-jun-08
Mario Merelli’s updates: www.mariomerelli.com
Marco Confortola: www.marcoconfortola.it

US/Australia/Swedish K2 expedition
Michael Farris (L), Paul Walters, Christopher Warner, Fredrick Strang, Christopher Klinke, Eric Meyer
Arrival: 10-Jun-08
Chris Warner’s website: www.earthtreksclimbing.com

Singapore 2008 K-2 Expedition
Robert Goh EE Kiat (L), Edwin Siew Cheok Wai, Ang Chhiring Sherpa, Jamling Bhote
Arrival: 16–jun–08
Expedition’s website: www.singaporemountaineers.com

Netherlands Norit K-2 Expedition 2008
Wilco Van Rooijen (L), Cas van de Gevel, Roeland van Oss, Gerard Mc Donnell, Pemba Gyalje Sherpa, Jelle Staleman, Mark Sheen, Court Haegens
Expedition’s website: www.noritk2.nl

International K2 expedition
Jacob Andreas Poluart Wetche, Nick Nielsen, Christian Stangl, Thomas Strausz Mag, Blagojevic Veljko, Hoselito Bite, Lanko Volodymyr, Ryndin Denys
Arrival: 18-May-08

Korea K-2 Abruzzi Spur Expedition 2008
Kim jae Soo (L), Ms. Go Mi Sun, Kim Hyo Gyeong, Lee Sung Rok, Park Kyeong Hyo, Hwang Dong Jin, Kim Seong Sang, Jumic Bhote
Arrival: 26-May-08

Serbia K-2, Expedition 2008
Milivoj Erdeljan (L), Iso Planic, Mirko Kujundzic, Predrag Zagorac, Miodrag Jovovic
Arrival: 04-jun-08

Norwegian K2 Expedition 2008
Cecilie Skog (L), Simen Morde, Rolf Bae, Oystein Stangeland
Arrival. 15–jun–08
Cecilie’s website: www.cecilieskog.com

French (international) K-2 Expedition 2008 + Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Jean Louis Marie (L), Nicholas Alexander Rice, Peter Guggemos, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner Dujmovits, David Goettler
Arrival: 01–jun-08
Gerlinde’s website – updates. www.gerlinde- kaltenbrunner.at
Nick Rice’s website: www.nickrice.us

Major Quads, Triples, Doubles

G1 (8068), G2 (8035), G3 (7952), & Broad Peak (8016)

Polish & Slovakia G-I,II,III & Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Jozef Kopold (L), Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski, Peter Hamor, Vladimir Plulik, Ivan Miklos, Ms Knizka Miroslav, Tomas Karas, Martin Gablik, Ms Kinga Baranowska, Mrkva Ales, Filip Pawluskiewicz, Ms Jarmila Tyrril, Nicolas Brun, Jean Noel Urban, Paulo Manuel Pimenta Roxo, Ms Daniela Alisabete Nocolau Teixeira
Baltoro Express expedition’s website: www.baltoroexpress.expedition.sk
Dodo’s website: www.dodokopold.com
P. Hamor’s website: www.peterhamor.sk
P. Morawski’s website: www.piotrmorawski.com
JN. Urban’s website: www.expeditions-urban.com
Pustelnik’s Himalayan weblog: http://himalman.wordpress.com/tag/piotr-pustelnik
Daniela’s and Paulo’s website: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/teixeira

Broad Peak (8048), G-I & G-II

Russian/French Broad Peak G-I & G-II Expedition 2008
Valery Babanov (L), Ms. Elisa Tbeth Revol, Girard Antoine Francois, Afanasyev Victor, Chochia Pavel, Shamalo Valery
Arrival: 15-jun-08
Babanov’s website: http://babanov.com/eng/

K2 & Broad Peak

American “The Tall Mountain” K-2 and Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Charles W Boyd (L), Andy Selters, Daniel T. McCann, Brian Block, David John Watson

Broad Peak (8047)

France (international) Broad Peak Expedition 2008 (inc. Veikka Gustafsson and Japanese Hirotaka Takeuchi)
Jean Pierre Bouchard (L), Remi Brun, Ms. Eun Sun Oh, Ovidio Lubrina, Tirtha Tamang, Blair John Falahey, Nicholas Alexander Rice, Mogens Jensen, Ms. Badia B. Bonnilla Luna, Mauricio E. Lopez Ahumada, Hirotaka Takeuchi, Kazuya Hiraide, Veikka Juhani Eero Gustafsson
Arrival: 18 – jun – 08
Badia & Mauricio’s website: www.unaparejaenascenso.com
Hirotaka’s blog: http://weblog.hochi.co.jp/takeuchi
Blair Halahey’s website: www.blair8000.com
Nick Rice’s website: www.nickrice.us

French/Spanish Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Serge Civera (L), Labatut, Galy, Portier, Giralt Espot, Michalski Pawel
Arrival: 29 – jun – 08
Serge’s website – news: http://broadpeak.free.fr/francais/messages.php4

Slovene/Austrian Himalaya Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Franc Oderlap (L), Zdenko Zagar, Christian Hanscho, Pepevnik France, Friendrich Klaura, Metod Bobnar, Rok Macek, Ms Badia Bonilla, Mauricio Lopez
Arrival: 29-jun-08
Badia & Mauricio’s website: www.unaparejaenascenso.com

Belarusian Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Tsialpuk Uladzimir (L), Belavus Siargei, Kahan Uladzilau, Melnikov Mikhail, Lutou Viktar, Lutov Anatoly, Statevich Serguei, Dubrovskiy Aleksandr
Arrival: 10-Jun-08

Iranian Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Keyvan Khoshkhou (L), Fereydoon Bayatani, Bahman Rostami, Ali Alimohammadi, Abbas Muhammadi, Seyed Jalal Syedsaleh, Ali Soleymani, Karim Nadaliyan, Mohammad Reza Asgari, Mahdi Abedi
Arrival. 21 – jun – 08

Iranian Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Hamid Reza Olang (L), Azim Gheichisaz, Mehdi Habibi, Ali Nasiri Yengejeh Reaz Bagloo, Abbas Ranjbari Sofiani, Hadi Saberi, Saftdar Zohouri, Saeid Soltani, Mohammad Naderian, Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Mahmoud Hashemisougheh, Saeid Bahaeloohoreh
Arrival: 12–jun–08

Spanish Broad Peak Expedition 2008
Javier Compos Duaso (L), Juan Carlos Gonzalez, Diego Hernandez Garcia, Santiago Martin Corrales, Rafael Merchan Cotos, Alfredo Garcia Pascual, Catalina Quesada Castro, Aitor las Hayas Madariaga, Aberto Zerain Berasategui
Arrival. 20–jun–08
Zerain, Hayas and Gonzalez’s team blog: http://broadpeak08.blogspot.com/
Lina Quesada’s bog: http://con-lina-quesada.blogspot.com/

Nanga Parbat (8125)

Italian Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008
Karl Unterkircher (L), Walter Nones, Simon Kehar Arrival: 05–jun–08
Karl’s blog: http://karlunterkircher.blogspot.com

Slovenia/American Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008
Ms. Irena Mark (L), Ms. Mojca Svajger, Fabrizio Zangrilli, David Robert Reeder, William Earl Pierson
Fabrizio’s blog: http://mbdclimbing.blogspot.com

Amical German Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008 (plus Daniele Nardo and Mario Panzeri)
Rainer Pircher (L), Streng Thomas, Neumair Hermann, Gunzel Andre, Richter Bernd Reinhard, Gruber Nikolaus, Stangl Martin, Pongracz Klaus, Nardi Danele, Mario Panzeri
Arrival: 22 – may – 08
Amical Alpin: www.amical.de/
Panzeri & Nardi’s Mountain Freedom expedition website: www.mountainfreedom.it

German DAV Summit Club Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008
Luis Stitzinger (L), Tobias Habig, Greher Jurgen Dr., Mrs. Helga Soll, Mrs. Alix Von Melle, Bernhard Muller, Josef Lunger
Arrival: 22-May-08

USA Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008
Christopher Warner (L), Evan Horst Ms Annamaria Cherubin, Eric Kapitulik, Nelson A Laur Jr, John Daniel Jenkins, Ashley Spring Gateless
Arrival 18–jun–08
Chris Warner’s website: www.earthtreksclimbing.com

Austria, Germany International Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008
Lukas Furtenbach (L), Leitner Karl Johann, David Otti, Philip Flaemig, Muller Armin, Alfred Grunert, Evelyn Holzer
Arrival 02–jun–08

Austria Pakistan Friendship Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008 (+ J.N. Urban’s ski expedition)
Markus Gschwendt (L), Mrs. Clara Kulich, Ing Thomas Steiner, Nicolas Brun, Jean Noel Urban
Arrival: 19-may-08
JN. Urban’s website: www.expeditions- urban.com/english/home_uk.html

Iranian Nanga Parbat Expedition 2008
Ms Leila Esfandiary Kajoryrad (L), Kazem Zabihifaridyan, Hossein Abolhassani, Amirhossein Partovinia, Saman Nemati, Seyed Mohammad Noroozi, Sahand Aghdaie
Arrival: 20 – jun – 08

Nanga Parbat & Spantik

Spantik & Nanga Parbat Austrian Tiroler Expedition 2008
Gerhar Wegmair (L), Bernhard Steidl, Hermann Arnold, Bernhard Mauracher
Arrival: 2-May-08

G-I (8068 ) & G-II (8035) Doubles

International G-I & II Expedition 2008
Jan Elleby (L), Erik Molgard, Henning Beck, Jacob Klaris Jensen, Avtandil Tsintsadze, Bidzina Gujabidze Tunc Findik
Arrival 22–jun-08
Tunc’s website: www.tuncfindik.com

Polish G-I & II Expedition 2008
Ryszard Jan Pawlowski (L), Sylwia Duda, Agnieszka Gasowska, Lucja Anna Kalisz, Krystyna Czok, Andrzej Zyczkowski, Szczesny Henryk, Gawrzyal, Rafal Ferdyn, Malgorzata loboz, Nowak Pawel, Murawicz Grzegorz, Sikorzewski, Jerzy Jozef Rozen
Arrival: 22-Jun-08

Italian G-I, G-II, Expedition 2008 (plus Alex Gavan)
Miss Gloria Brighenti (L), Roberto Piantoni, Marco Astori, La Terra Simone, Antonio Vaccari, Alexandru Gavan
Arrival: 06–jun–08
Alex Gavan’s website: www.cloudclimbing.ro/
Robi Piantoni’s website– news: www.robypiantoni.it

Spanish G-I, G-II Expedition 2008
Carlos Soria Fontan (L), Emilio Vicente Lagunilla Alonso, Diego Alonso Delgado, Nuria Garcia Pachon, Ignacio Garcia Pinacho, Francisco Jaier Pascual Caballero, Alfredo Rodriguez Delgado, Daniel Guimaraens Igual, Daniel Salas Mirat, Luis Maria Barbero Rodriguez, Ms Rosa Maria Fernandez Rubio, Rodrigo Fica Perez, Miguel angel Perez Alvarez, Martin Ramos Garcia, Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson, Gerald Fiala
Arrival: 18–jun-08

Korea G-I & G-II Expedition 2008
Chung Seung Kwon (L), Jo Gyu Taek, Lee Han Jong, Yun Ji Hyun, Park jong IL, Paulo Manuel Pimenta Roxo, Ms. Daniela Elisabete Nicolau Teixeira
Arrival: 04–jun-08

Polish G-I & G-II Expedition 2008
Kawiak Jerzy (L), Duda Bartosz, Zimnicki Pawel Krystian, Szut Dariusz, Michalak Jakub, Wos Cezary Stanislaw, Bigda Krzysztof, Machiej Szulc, Wieczkowski Eugeniusz, Fudro Edward
Arrival: 15–jun–08
* website: SZCZECIN KARAKORUM EXPEDITION ‘2008

Colombian G-I & G-II Expedition 2008
Gonzalo Ospina (L), Jonathann Pardo, Simon Gonzalez, Daniel Calderon, Anibal Pineda, Juan G. Sierra, Antonio Lozada, Ivan Macias
Arrival: 10–jun–08

Spanish G-I & G-II Expedition 2008
Manuel Hernandez Gimenez (L), Felix Castrillo San Rafael, Miguel Angel Rodriguez Pineiro, Ms Maria Del Pilar Menendez Libera
Arrival: 28–jun–08

G-I (8068 )

Focus G-II Expedition 2008
Cattaneo Marco (L), Ms. Ulissi Annamaria, Paulo Rogerio Pinto Ceolho, Ms. Helena Guiropacheco Pinto Coelho, Toshihisa Takase, Pasang Dawa Sherpa
Arrival: 11–jun–08
Focus World Expeditions: www.focusworldexpeditions.com

South Korea Gyewoo G-I Expedition 200
Yoon Jeong Weon (L), Park Yeul Joo, Hwang Kyo Chan, Kim jong Cheol, Chhembi Sherpa, Dawa Ongju Sherpa
Arrival: 06 – jun – 08

G-II (8035)

USA/Italy The North Face Ski & Snowboard G-II Expedition 2008 John Griber (L)
Hilaree Janet O’Neill, Ms Giulia Monego, Kristoffer Erickson, Catherine Clare Rigby, Ingrid Backstrom, Colyer Garre, Kimberly Neff Havell, Emilio Previtali
Arrival: 01–jun–08

Spanish GII expedition
Jorge Egocheaga (L), Joelle Brupbacher, Martin Ramos Garcia, Miguel Angel Perez Alvarez, Rafael Garcia Belderrain, Alberto Zerain Berasategui
Arrival: 01–jun-08

Canadian Field Touring Alpine G-II, Expedition 2008
Christopher Stephen Szymiec (L), Mark Kosminder, Jean Rene Boidron, Francois Loiuis Neukirch, Hendrik Fred Treur, Andrew Clark, Lucero Ignacio Javier, Surech Kuppusamy
Arrival: 10 – jun – 08
Expedition dispatches: www.fieldtouring.com/dispatches/gasherbrum_II_2008.php

Switzerland Kobler & Partner G-II Expedition 2008
Klaus Tscherrig (L), Ms Ureula Tscherrig, Heinz Vetter, Hanspeter Weber, Kurt Bar, Daniel Dorig, Rene Meier, Armin Rempfler, Richard Brill, Till Kramann, Pemba Nurbu Sherpa, Wongchhu sherpa
Arrival: 09–jun–08
Kobler’s company blog: http://kobler-partner.ch/blog/

L’Aventure Existe Encore G-II Expedition 2008
Tomas Grenier (L), Guillaume Kretz, Axel De la Forest Divonne
Arrival: 05–jul–08

SPIRES & Lower peaks

GIV (7925)
Spanish G-IV, Expedition 2008 Spain G-IV (7925)

Jose Carlos Tamayo (L), Alberto Inurrateg Ui Iriarte, Miguel Zabalaza Azcona, Juan Vallejo Llanos, Ferrán Latorre Torres
Distaghil Sar (7883)
UK/Canadian Distaghil Sar Expedition 2008
Bruce Normand (L), Peter Thompson, Benjamin Cheek, Donald Bowie, Fabrizio Zangrilli

Rakaposhi (7787)
Spanish Rakaposhi Expedition 2008
Jordi Bosch Lleo (L), Joseph Permane Sabates, Joaquim Bover Busquer, Ramon Estiu Masferrer, Joseph Maria Sola Caros, Meritxell Fontclara Quintanas, Inaki Garijo Erro, Francese Xavier Robiro Robiro, Carles Figueras Torrent

Japan Rakaposhi Expedition 2008
Hosoda Ichiro (L) M 57
Arrival: 19-jul-08

Batura (7762) & Chogolisa (7665)
Korean University of Seoul First Ascent Batura Expedition 2008
Kim Chang Ho (L), Shin Taemoon, Park Pyoung Deuk, Ms. Seo Jeong Hee, Lee Dong Hoon, Ms Lee Yoonji, Choi Suk Mun, Park Seongku, Park Youngjae, Kim Suk Jun

Batura II (7729)
USA Italy Batura-II Expedition 2008
Damian Benegas (L), Guillermo Benegas, Herve Barmasse, Florian Riegler, Matin Reigler, Simone Moro

Kanjut Sar (7760)
USA/Russian Kanjut Sar Expedition 2008
Professor Lev Ioffe (L), Adilet imambekov, Nicolas Preitner, Yury Soyfer, Alexander Chesnokov, Dmitry Mosckalev

Skyang Kangry (7357)
Russian Skyang Kangry Expedition 2008
Nikolay Zakharov (L), Belyaev Evageny, Arkhipov Vladimir, Yanushevich Alexander, Mikhalitsin Alexander, Loginov Igor, Kukharev Aleksandr, Khbostenko Oleg, Cherezov Sergey
Arrival: 4-Jun-08

K6 (7282), K7 (6934) & Kapura Peak (6544)
Slovak Mountain, K-6, K-7, Kapura Peak Expedition 2008
Igor Koller (L), Cenigo Vladimir, Cmarik Gabriel, Jakubec Viliam, Kolarik Andrej, Mitro Slavomir, Psenko Vlastimil, Repcik Marek, Rabatin Erik, Sak Daniel

Diran (7273) Japan Diran Expedition 2008 Hiroshi Kawasaki (L)

Mustagh Tower (7273)
Slovenian Mustagh Tower Expedition 2008
Pavle Kozjek (L), Gregor Kresal, Dejan Miskovic
Pavle’s blog: http://pkozjek.blogspot.com/

Latok-I (7215)
American Latok-I Expedition
Joshua Wharton (L), Maxime Turgeon, Ms Whit Magro, Ms Colin Child Haley

Link Sar (7041) and K-13 (6666)
USA Link Sar Expedition 2008
Steven Swenson (L), Mark Richey
Arrival: 6-Jul-08

Link Sar (7041)
Italian Link Sar Expedition 2008
Giordani Maurizio (L), Gianluca Maspes, Massimo Faletti
Arrival: 1-Jun-08

Spantik (7027) & Nanga Parbat (8125)
Austrian Tiroler Spantik Expedition 2008
Gerhar Wegmair (L), Bernhard Steidl, Hermann Arnold, Bernhard Mauracher
Arrival: 2-May-08

Spantik (7027)
Italian Spantik Expedition 2008 Italy Spantik (7027)
Roberto Piantoni (L), Marco Astori M
Arrival: 2-May-08

Australian Spantik Expedition 2008
Ingvar Renaud Lidman (L), Peter Andrew Gamble, Benjamin Ray Storey, Douglas Conrad, Lachlan William Hich

Czech Republik Spantik Expedition 2008
Dr. Sterbova Dina Margita (L), Ing Dokoupli Vitezslav, Ms Najdekrova Jitka, Cabrnoch Jakub, Kumsta Michal

Latok-III (6949)
Spanish Latok-III
Alberto Salvado Argones (L), Jose Maria Esquirol De Ateaga M

Russian Latok-III
Shamalo Valery (L), Gorbatenkov Alexey, Kirichenko Ruslan, Krasnov Dmitry, Koltunov Oleg

Bekka Brakai (6940)
New Zealand Women’s First Ascent of Bekka Brakki Chhok Expedition 2008
Ms Patricia Deavoll (L), Malcolm Bass

K-7 (6934)
Slovenian K-7 Expedition 2008
Ales Cesen (L), Nejc Cesen, Rok Blagus, Rok Sisernik, Mihael Hrastelj
Arrival: 1-Aug-08
Ales & Nejc Cesen’s website: www.cesen.com/?language=en

Jun 25, 2008 (MountEverest.net) A trekking agency in Nepal reported to its clients today that according to a brief email from their Tibetan Tour Agent; Tibet seems to open for normal tour groups by end June.

It is stated that normal groups will be allowed in first, followed by other trekking groups. As for climbing expeditions, confirmation from the Tibet Mountaineering Association is reportedly expected to be announced shortly.

Everest closed and re-opened – when, how and why…

Everest north side was closed earlier this spring; back then reportedly for security reasons, and has not yet been re-opened. Also other Tibetan 8000ers were made off-limit to climbing.

In a June 23 report this week, Chinese state media said that authorities will limit climbers on Everest north side in the future, for environmental reasons.

“Tibet may limit the number of tourists and mountaineers” said a director of the Tibet Environmental Protection Bureau [...] he, however, did not say when the restriction would be imposed,” China Daily reported.

“At present, there are no restrictions on the number of tourists to the mountain or the areas they can visit,” China daily further stated – a surprise to mountaineering outfitters who haven’t yet been allowed to bring groups in.

Not only Everest.

Over the weekend the Chinese Government went ahead with its Olympic torch relay through Tibet. Media was curbed, and heavy security guaranteed there were no human rights demonstrations ABC news reported.

“The relay ended up being a rallying point for local political leaders who vowed to destroy the Dalai Lama,” said the news source. This goes against the Olympic committee organizers’ claim that the Olympic event is not politicized. The committee repeatedly uses this argument to explain its indifference to human rights protesters.

Foreigners are still banned from entering Tibet, only a handful of journalists were allowed into Lhasa to cover the torch relay, and most ordinary people were told to stay off the streets until it was over, ABC news said.

The number game.

Next year marks the 50 year anniversary of Dalai Lama’s forced exile from Tibet. Final uprisings could be expected in the occupied country, with the decimated Tibetan population possibly feeling it’s “now or never.” China has already restricted hunting trips and other tourism events to the country until after 2009. The Everest restrictions are however blamed on the environment.

“More than 40,000 tourists visited the mountain last year. And even though their number was less than 10 percent of those who visited the mountain on the Nepal side in 2000,” China Daily claims. “Environmentalists estimate they could have left behind as much as 120 tons of garbage – an average of 3 kg per tourist.”

Sources for and studies of those numbers are unclear and details concerning the figures have neither been offered nor confirmed.

Comparisons have neither been made vs. other – far greater – environmental issues caused by China in Tibet such as major deforestation, dumping of nuclear waste, and Chinese mining currently heavily polluting Tibetan rivers.

* Previous story – Everest north side: When will the Chinese peaks open for climbing?

Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska is the highest mountain peak in North America, at a height of approximately 20,320 feet (6,194 m).^[1] It is the centerpiece of Denali National Park.

Mount McKinley or Denali – one of Seven Summits list.

Notable features :

Mount McKinley has a larger bulk and rise than Mount Everest. Even though the summit of Everest is about 9,000 feet (2,700 m) higher as measured from sea level, its base sits on the Tibetan Plateau at about 17,000 feet (5,200 m), giving it a real vertical rise of little more than 12,000 feet (3,700 m). The base of Mount McKinley is roughly a 2,000-foot plateau, giving it an actual rise of 18,000 feet (5,500 m).

The mountain is also characterized by extremely cold weather. A thermometer left exposed at an elevation of 15,000 feet on Mount McKinley over 19 years recorded a temperature of −100°F (−73.3°C) at some point during its exposure^{[citation needed]}. There is also an unusually severe risk of altitude illness for climbers, due to not only its high elevation but also its high latitude.^[2] At the equator, a mountain as high as Mount McKinley would have 47% as much oxygen available on its summit as there is at sea level,^[3] but because of its latitude, the pressure on the summit of McKinley is even lower.^[4]

Climbing history :

The first recorded attempt to climb Mount McKinley was by Judge James Wickersham in 1903, via the Peters
Glacier and the North Face, now known as the Wickersham Wall. This route has tremendous avalanche danger and was not successfully climbed until 1963.

Famed explorer Dr. Frederick Cook claimed the first ascent of the mountain in 1906. His claim was regarded with some suspicion from the start, but was also widely believed. It was later proved fraudulent, with some crucial evidence provided by Bradford Washburn when he was sketched on a lower peak.

In 1910, four locals (Tom Lloyd, Peter Anderson, Billy Taylor, and Charles McGonagall), known as the Sourdough expedition, attempted McKinley, despite a complete lack of climbing experience. They spent approximately three months on the mountain. However, their purported summit day was impressive: carrying a bag of doughnuts, a thermos of cocoa each and a 14-foot (4.2 m) spruce pole, two of them reached the North Summit, lower of the two, and erected the pole near the top. According to them, they took a total of 18 hours — a record that has yet to be breached (as of 2006). No one believed their success (partly due to false claims that they had cd climbed both summits) until the true first ascent, in 1913.In 1912, the Parker-Browne expedition nearly reached the summit, turning back within just a few hundred yards of it due to harsh weather. In fact, that probably saved their lives, as a powerful earthquake shattered the glacier they ascended hours after they safely left it.

The first ascent of the main summit of McKinley came on June 7, 1913 by a party led by Hudson Stuck. The first man to reach the summit was Walter Harper, an Alaska Native. Harry Karstens and Robert Tatum also made the summit. Tatum later commented, “The view from the top of Mount McKinley is like looking out the windows of Heaven!”^[5] They ascended the Muldrow Glacier route pioneered by the earlier expeditions, which is still often climbed today. Stuck confirmed, via binoculars, the presence of a large pole near the North Summit; this report confirmed the Sourdough ascent, and today it is widely believed that the Sourdoughs did succeed on the North Summit. However, the pole was never seen before or since, so there is still some doubt. Stuck also discovered that the Parker-Browne party were only about 200 feet (61 m) of elevation short of the true summit when they turned back.

See the timeline below for more important events in Mount McKinley’s climbing history.

The mountain is regularly climbed today, with just over 50% of the expeditions successful, although it is still a dangerous undertaking. By 2003, the mountain had claimed the lives of nearly 100 mountaineers.^[6] The vast majority of climbers use the West Buttress Route, pioneered in 1951 by Bradford Washburn, after an extensive aerial photographic analysis of the mountain. Climbers typically take two to four weeks to ascend the mountain.

Timeline :

• 1896-1902 Surveys by Robert Muldrow, George Eldridge, Alfred Brooks.
• 1903. First attempt, by Judge James Wickersham.
• 1906. Frederick Cook falsely claims the first ascent of McKinley.
• 1910. The Sourdoughs ascend the North Summit.
• 1912. The Parker-Browne attempt almost reaches the South Summit.
• 1913. First ascent by Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, Robert Tatum.
• 1932. Second ascent, by Alfred Linley, Harry Liek, Grant Pearson, Erling Strom. (Both peaks were climbed.)
• 1947. Barbara Washburn becomes the first woman to reach the summit as her husband Bradford Washburn becomes the first to summit twice.
• 1951. First ascent of the West Buttress Route, led by Bradford Washburn.
• 1954. First ascent of the very long South Buttress Route.
• 1959. First ascent of the West Rib, now a popular, mildly technical route to the summit.
• 1961. First ascent of the Cassin Ridge, the best-known technical route on the mountain. This was a major landmark in Alaskan climbing.
• 1963. Two teams make first ascents of two different routes on the Wickersham Wall.
• 1967. First winter ascent, via the West Buttress, by Dave Johnston, Art Davidson, and Ray Genet.
• 1967. Seven members of Joe Wilcox’s twelve-man expedition perish in a storm near the summit. Up to this time, this was the third worst disaster in mountaineering history in terms of lives lost.
• 1970. First solo ascent by Naomi Uemura.
• 1984. Uemura returns to make the first winter solo ascent, but dies after summitting. Tono Križo, František Korl and Blažej Adam from the Slovak Mountaineering Association climb a very direct route to the summit, now known as the Slovak Route, on the south face of the mountain, to the right of the Cassin Ridge.^[7]
• 1988. First solo winter ascent with safe return, by Vern Tejas.
• 1990. Alaskan Norma Jean Saunders became the first woman to officially document a solo ascent of Mount McKinley. She climbed the West Buttress.

Mt. McKinley in July 2006

McKinley, Mount McKinley, Mount Denali (6194 m n.p.m.) – najwyższy szczyt Ameryki Północnej, położony w górach Alaska (USA). McKinley zbudowany jest ze skał krystalicznych (głównie granitów i łupków krystalicznych). Jego masyw pokryty jest wiecznym śniegiem i lodowcami, największy z nich, o długości ok. 50 km to lodowiec Muldrow. Względem otaczających go dolin występuje u jego stoków jedna z największych deniwelacji na świecie – ponad 5 kilometrów.

Po raz pierwszy szczyt został zdobyty w 1913. Nazwa na cześć amerykańskiego prezydenta Williama McKinleya, “Denali” to tradycyjna indiańska nazwa góry. Obecnie masyw McKinleya objęty jest parkiem narodowym Denali. Z uwagi na fakt, że jest to najwyższy szczyt Ameryki Północnej, wchodzi on w skład tzw. Korony Ziemi.

Climb Mt. Vinson with Berg Adventures – Trip Description

Explore the Ellsworth Mountains of Antarctica.

This is the big one. A trip to the interior of Antarctica with Berg Adventures is a lifetime adventure for any explorer. We all seek adventure and beauty to enrich our lives. Climber on VinsionThe unspeakable grandness and sublime space of Antarctica is unmatched and will leave you forever with the satisfaction of knowing that you have at least glimpsed the pure, empty soul of our planet.

Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, was first climbed in 1966 by Americans John Evans, Barry Corbet, Pete Schoening and William Long. In 1983 Dick Bass and Frank Wells climbed Mt. Vinson during their famous Seven Summits quest. Their pilot was a skilled young British aviator named Giles Kershaw. In 1984 and 1985 Kershaw returned to Antarctica with Canadian climbers Martyn Williams and Pat Morrow. Their team of 8, including Kershaw himself reached the summit of Vinson on November 19th.

It was during the 80’s that Giles Kershaw, British glaciologists Charles Swithinbank and Mike Maxwell identified the “blue ice runway” at Patriot Hills, the natural feature that spawned the growth of an Antarctic Base. When we leave Punta Arenas Chile on our flight across the Drake Passage for Antarctica, the Blue Ice Runway and Patriot Hills will be our goal. After a brief taste of life in a “real” Antarctic Base, we will venture out in smaller ski-equipped aircraft for the Ellsworth Mountains.

Climbing Mt. Vinson with Berg Adventures involves establishing three camps above our base camp at 8,000 ft on the Branscomb Glacier. Climbing is moderate snow climbing, with slope angles up to 45 degrees. Temperatures are cold, below 0 degrees F for the entire trip. But without the temperature fluctuations that one experiences in other glacier ranges of the world dressing for these temperatures and moving in them is surprisingly easy. In direct sunlight you can be quite warm. Although it is light for 24 hours in the austral polar regions at this time of year, the sun will go behind ridges in the Ellsworth Mountains for a few hours each day. These are hours that we plan to be snug in our tents, resting for the next day’s climb. Antarctica is extremely dry. We do not use skis or snowshoes for travel between camps on Vinson. Crampons are worn on the moderately steep slopes of the upper mountain.
Internet Broadcast.

Your adventure in Antarctica will be cybercast to the Internet via satellite phone. Daily dispatches will be posted on the Web at BergAdventures.com. This will be a great way for your group to share stories and photographs of your adventures while “on the scene” during the climb. In the past, our dispatches have been used by family, friends and supporters to track the progress of our groups, by classrooms to learn about the wild places we visit, and by local newspapers to report stories of interest.

View our previous Mt. Vinson expedition dispatches.
Guides.

Past BAI Vinson climbs have been led by Wally Berg or Dave Hahn. Wally has guided three ascents of Mt. Vinson in previous years and was leader of the Omega Embree Glacier Expedition in 2000. This expedition explored the unvisited reaches of the upper Embree Glacier in the Ellsworth Mountains and Wally established a new route on the unclimbed west side of Mt. Bentley. Dave Hahn is the world’s premier Antarctica mountaineering guide. He has guided 23 ascents to the summit of Mt. Vinson, yet his love for the beauty and challenge of the mountain has not diminished.
Qualifications.

To climb Vinson you need to be in excellent physical condition. This is a glacier climb of easy to moderate difficulty. You should have some experience walking with an ice axe, using crampons and doing self-arrest. Most of the terrain is low angle, but summit day is long and has one 50 degree slope. Antarctica is extreme, but it is a surprisingly pleasant place to camp and live during the light weeks of the high Austral summer when we are there. Because temperature fluctuations are not great, it is easy to dress for the cold, sunny days. You need to have winter camping experience before you go in order to know how to manage your gear and body temperature. Selection of the proper equipment for climbing and camping in Antarctica is imperative. The continent is an uncompromising, vast and wonderful place.

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